Pull the electrical disconnect now.
Take note, to how the capacitor is wired, meaning which color wire goes to which terminal.
Now remove all the wires from the capacitor.
Grab a voltage meter and set it to mfd.
Now place one lead on C of the capacitor
Place the other on H of the capacitor
Take note of how many microfarads your capacitor is putting out. Now compare the actual microfarads to the capacitors rating.
(Note: to find the capacitors rating read the writing on the cap itself, you’re looking for a 55uf or a 55+5uf in either case it’s the 55 number you’re looking at and will use to compare to the actual output. You might see a 35uf or an 80uf but whatever it’s rated for it needs to be within 10% to be called ok.)
If your capacitor tests bad, stop here and move to page 4 now where you will replace a bad capacitor
If the capacitor tests good, put all the wires back on it and continue matrix.
Double check all the wiring to the compressor to be sure there are no burnt wires. Be sure to remove the terminal cover on the compressor itself and check there also.
Ok we know at this point, we have a good capacitor, good wiring and we have the proper voltage to the compressor and yet, it does not run.
We have either a bad compressor or it’s just hot and overheated. Now we will find out which.
Make sure your lid is on and secure and also that there are no obstructions in the way of a spinning condenser fan blade.
Put an amp probe on the common wire of the compressor now.
Now watch the amp probe as you give the machine power, it will do one of three things.
1. It starts right up and never pulls more than 30 amps. Stop there and move to page 18 now
2. Compressor starts but pulls over 30 amps for the first second or even higher. Move to page 16 now.
3. The compressor does not try to start it does not pull any amps. Move to page 24 now.